Mountain Guide’s Course

Alaska Mountaineering School
Talkeetna, AK, United States

Course Format: Classroom | E-learning | Virtual Class | Online | On-site | Blended | Self-paced

Course Description:

'' The AMS Mountain Guide’s course is designed for individuals wanting to pursue guiding on high altitude, glaciated peaks. This is an advanced course with high expectations of its students. All participants must be experienced back country users with a background in general mountaineering and 5th class climbing. Alaska’s mountains are uncompromising and present unique demands to the mountaineer. This course provides a forum for teaching mountaineering skills, practicing advanced rescue techniques, and leading Denali expeditions.
Features of This Course

Review snow and technical ice climbing techniques
Review glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques
Review glacier camping techniques for extreme environments: walls, caves, igloos, trenches, probing, kitchens, latrines
Peak ascents: various belays and fixed line techniques, route finding, problem solving applied to suitable objectives
Teaching and guiding techniques: leadership and communication, managing hazards with students and clients
Avalanche curriculum: mechanics, transceiver use, snow morphology, identification & avoidance
Rescue procedures: litters, short roping, lowering systems
First aid classes: frostbite, hypothermia, altitude-related illnesses
Potential for severe weather
1:3 instructor/student ratio

Expedition Style & Remoteness
AMS mountaineering courses are self-reliant expeditions which travel in remote mountain ranges of Alaska.
CLICK

Throughout the course, students live in the outdoors, learn to prepare their own meals, and care for themselves. The course format emphasizes hands-on learning and the application of new skills in a variety of terrain. From these areas, evacuation to modern medical facilities can be difficult and take days if the weather is unflyable. Your course models after a simulated Mt. McKinley expedition.
Environment
Mountaineering courses fly into Denali National Park & Preserve, home to North America’s biggest and wildest mountains. The exact location depends on conditions and instructor preference. Typically, we fly into one of the following mountain groups: Ruth Gorge, Little Switzerland, or Eldridge. Each of these areas, with their variety of mountains, beauty and isolation are challenging and demand respect. Course routes are classic for a mountaineering expedition in Alaska.
CLICK

Expect to be on snow for the duration of your course. Weather of all varieties is to be expected: wind, snow, rain, and beautifully clear and calm days.

The First Day
We will meet for gear check at AMS headquarters in Talkeetna at 9:00 a.m. on the starting day of your course. Those taking the shuttle from Anchorage on the first day usually arrive between 10:00-10:30. After checking equipment, issuing any items you need, and having lunch, we may practice fixed line ascension or immediately fly on to the glacier. Courses fly onto the glacier in ski-equipped fixed wing Cessna 185’s. The flight into Denali Park is spectacular and a memorable highlight to the course and the quickest way to access the snowy peaks. This is a busy day, so please take care of all personal business before you arrive.

Course Progression
The Guide’s course begins with a review of the basic curriculum for any Alaska mountaineering expedition: how to route-find safely on glaciers with a group, with the rescue of each other and self rescue in the event of a crevasse fall. Simultaneously, we will be practicing glacier camping while living in probed, wanded and wall protected areas. Course progression continues with the application of these skills to real scenarios and many of their unexpected situations. Course routes strike a balance between base camping and moving
CLICK

camp to experience a variety of terrain . Technical and non-technical peak ascents provide opportunities to review specific hazard management techniques such as fixing lines and running protection. Guiding protocols and techniques unique to Alaska and standards proposed by the AMGA are discussed and practiced. Instructors provide written evaluations at the end of the course. The Mountain Guide’s course is a graduate level experience which prepares students for a leadership role in the mountaineering profession.

The last day will be spent traveling to our air strip and flying back to Talkeetna. Once in Talkeetna, we will de-issue any rental equipment, clean group gear, exchange evaluations, and enjoy a salmon barbecue. Be aware that, while unlikely, the weather does not always cooperate with our schedule and delays in and out of the mountains can occur.

Course Objectives
Every course varies in route, group dynamics, and environmental conditions. Working with these variables, instructors strive for the following goals for each student:


Safety & Judgment
AMS teaches mountaineering skills which promote the health and safety of all expedition members. Each graduate is expected to:
demonstrate knowledge of the hazards in a glaciated mountain
demonstrate an emergency plan for a summit day gone wrong
participate in making sound decisions affecting the health and safety of the expedition
display knowledge of personal limitations, and the judgment to stay within them

Leadership & Teamwork
Students are exposed to theory and practice of outdoor leadership, teamwork and expedition behavior. Each graduate is expected to:
work effectively as a team member
demonstrate sound expedition behavior: commitment to the group, a positive attitude, and cooperation to achieve group goals
effectively communicate ideas and concerns with individuals and within a group
show initiative in teaching and leading peers, teach one class in an area of their choice
employ leadership styles appropriate to the situation; support others in the leadership role
use decision-making and planning skills to participate fully in a safe, environmentally sound expedition

Environmental Ethics
An important part of every course is to instill Leave-No-Trace ethics into our expedition strategy. Each graduate is expected to:
perform minimum impact living and traveling skills appropriate to a glaciated environment
show respect for pristine wilderness and fostering respect in others

Winter Camping & Glacier Travel
AMS courses focus on back country skills which are safe for the individual and environment. Each graduate is expected to:
live comfortably and efficiently in a glaciated mountain environment: camping, cooking, and dressing for a variety of conditions
travel competently using safe and efficient navigation and route-finding techniques to reduce and avoid hazards
demonstrate roped glacier travel techniques using skis or snow shoes and lead rope a team
take responsibility for the organization, maintenance and repair of group and personal equipment

Mountaineering Skills
Learning the skills to effectively guide high altitude mountains and technically difficult alpine climbs is the main goal of AMS’ Mountain Guide’s Course. Each graduate is expected to:
demonstrate a teachable knowledge of basic and advanced knots and rope handling techniques
demonstrate a teachable knowledge of crampon and ice ax techniques for snow, ice and/or mixed terrain
demonstrate a teachable knowledge of mountaineering belay skills: fixed line, running belays, glacier travel, 5th class
competently set up rope teams for glacier travel
consistently perform appropriate techniques to reduce and avoid hazards
recognize and evaluate avalanche terrain
demonstrate the ability to remain composed and thoughtful in difficult and exposed terrain
competently lead a rope team on a safe route on a glacier
rescue a victim of a crevasse fall, avalanche, altitude illness, or climbing fall
est ...''

Phone:(907)733-1016

School Address:

Alaska Mountaineering School
PO BOX 566, 3rd Street, Talkeetna, AK 99676, United States
phone: (907)733-1016
fax: (907)733-1362
email: info@climbalaska.org

Jobs & Resumes: Talkeetna
Houses & Roommates: Talkeetna

Mountaineering 6-Day
Mountaineering 12-Day
Advanced Mountaineering Course
Wilderness Trek
Wilderness Hike
Wilderness Expedition
Wilderness First Responder

Notice: The course description on this page was captured from the Internet as historical reference or submitted by visitors. It was archived statically and not updated from day to day.
 

Tips: Our combined search function does not only provide you with the training courses and students, but also talent resumes and jobs, or shared apartments nearby for rent.